Continued from previous page Enhancing Performance Incorporation of a styling polymer into a dry shampoo formulation allows you to create a product that does more than just clean and refresh. Carefully chosen polymers, added at very low levels, help to add more benefits, allowing for additional label claims and enhancing consumer appeal. To help add hold, shine and thermal protection, polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-acrylates copolymer (and) alcohol denatured (and) water (DynamX polymer) can be used in a dry shampoo product. The properties associated with urethane polymers help to provide long-lasting hold and flexible, natural motion for appealing on-hair properties. For volume and texture, a low level of VA/ crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer (RESYN 28- 2930 polymer) can give excellent aesthetic properties, fine spray patterns, easy dry combing and shampoo removability. Hold and volume can be achieved with a dry shampoo by incorporating octylacrylamide/acrylates/ butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (BALANCE 47 polymer) into the formulation. This polymer helps provide film formation, high humidity curl retention, superior on-hair feel and easy shampoo removability. Formulating Guidelines Product properties are heavily influenced by ingredient choices, so desired performance should dictate formulation composition. The choice of starch and usage level impact whitening on hair. In general, starch blends show lower whitening than singular starches. Keeping starch levels below 5% is recommended to minimize whitening. The size and shape of starch particles will impact its tendency to exhibit whitening. Tapioca starches exhibit less whitening on hair than rice starches and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate (NATRASORB HFB) shows least whitening of the starches studied. Starch/polymer blends have less whitening than starch alone. Polymer incorporation at low levels (<1.5%) provides hold, control and static reduction without stickiness. Different polymers will exhibit different on-hair properties and benefits. Urethane-based polymers (DynamX polymer) give flexibility and restylable control. Acetate and acrylate polymers (RESYN and BALANCE polymers) provide firmer hold, texture, styling properties and a bit of “crunch” when dry. The propellant level and type influences formulation spray characteristics and dryness. Propane/ Butane provides a drier spray than other propellants and propellant levels above 65% provide drier sprays and less wetness on the hair. 20 SPRAY November 2014 Continued on p.22
Spray November 2014
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