Laurie J. Marshall Global Marketing Manager, Personal Care Applications, AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry shampoos, stylists are now recommending the use of dry shampoos. These products allow the user to increase the time between washings and therefore protect color from fading. Form & Function Most dry shampoos come in one of two forms— an actual powder or an aerosol spray. Powder dry shampoos can be applied directly on the scalp from the bottle and either brushed through or massaged in using the fingers. Dry shampoo aerosols can be sprayed directly onto the scalp from a few inches away and likewise may need to be brushed or massaged through the area. The ingredients in the spray-type of dry shampoo are usually a mixture of aerosol propellants, absorbing agents, solvents, conditioning agents and fragrance. When used properly, not only does dry shampoo remove excess oil from hair, it also adds texture and volume. The starches used in the formulation of dry shampoo help to add volume, while the inclusion of polymers can provide texture and styling properties. Further, dry shampoo can create the look of freshly styled hair. Formulating Basics In formulating dry shampoo—powder or aerosol— starch serves the primary function of adsorbing oil and freshening the hair. Added benefits can be provided, from volumizing to texturizing to shine enhancement, through the addition of carefully-chosen functional ingredients. Application properties, product aesthetics, oilabsorption capacity and even the residual whitening on hair are all influenced by the choice of starch as well as the level of starch in the formulation. Some commonly used starch bases include Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (DRY-FLO PC Starch). This starch is a unique, hydrophobically modified natural polymer. The most distinctive property of this starch is its ability to mitigate greasiness produced by oils and occlusive agents. In dry shampoos, it reduces the perceived oiliness, leaving a soft, dry and matte finish. Many dry shampoos feature the use of tapiocaderived starches. Tapioca starch (TAPIOCA PURE Starch) is a native starch which has applications in powder products and dry shampoos. The high purity of the starch allows for its use in a broad range of systems and makes it an excellent talc replacement. Tapioca starch imparts a smooth, soft feel to dry shampoos and has excellent aesthetic properties in formulations. Another alternative is tapioca starch (and) polymethylsilsesquioxane (DRYFLO TS Starch), a new, aluminumfree, non-genetically modified tapioca starch that is created through the modification of tapioca starch using polymethylsilsesquioxane. It is a costeffective ingredient that improves aesthetics in products, including dry shampoos and styling aids. Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate (NATRASORB HFB Starch) is a hydrophobically modified starch with a high capacity for loading oils. It maintains freeflowing properties and good aesthetics, even in the presence of moisture. It can be used, as supplied, in powders or spray products targeted for oil control. The starch absorbs oil from the hair and scalp helping control shine and providing a matte finish. November 2014 SPRAY 19 Continued on next page.
Spray November 2014
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