New Ingredients for Sun Care Ashland Specialty Ingredients Applying the science of circadian regulation to skin care, Ashland introduced Chronogen YST biofunctional, a new extract derived from yeast protein that may help to maintain skin’s cellular rhythm and guard against UV damage in-vitro for healthy looking skin. Ashland clinically tested Chronogen YST INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (Proposed) at 1%, and based on these results, recommends the biofunctional for use in daytime formulations to help skin boost its natural defenses against UV-induced damage; nighttime formulations to boost the skin’s own processes in skin regeneration; anti-aging formulations with claims based on epigenetic science; and formulations to help maintain the skin’s “synchronized” internal clock. BASF BASF has developed a sunscreen concentrate that turns into a sunscreen just by adding water: Uvinul Easy is a transparent, oil based concentrate with UV filters and emulsifiers. The addition of water at a constant temperature with moderate stirring leads to the spontaneous formation of a white oil-in-water emulsion. With Uvinul Easy, any sunscreen between SPF 6 and SPF 50—the range of SPF categories recommended 20 Spray May 2015 in Europe—can be readily manufactured. For making an SPF 30 sunscreen, for example, the concentrate needs to be diluted down to 30%. Thickener can be added to achieve the desired rheological properties to make various sun protection formats, such as sprays, lotions or creams. The right amount of UVA protection is automatically achieved. Additionally, Tinosorb A2B is the first UV filter to be included in the positive list (Annex VI) of the new EU Cosmetics Regulation, according to BASF. The broadband filter is also the first UV filter with particle sizes smaller than 100 nanometers approved for use in cosmetics in Europe. Tinosorb A2B protects the skin against UV wavelengths ranging from 290 to 340 nanometers; it complements conventional oil-soluble UV filters by closing the current gap between UVA and UVB absorbers, thus enabling a balanced protection across the entire spectrum of solar UV radiation. Bayer MaterialScience Baycusan brand polyurethane dispersions from Bayer MaterialScience help enable numerous new applications for the beauty industry. They are free of preservatives and solvents and are used in cosmetic formulations for sun protection and skin care products, hair care and decorative cosmetics. The brand was recently relaunched as “The Beauty Enabler.” Baycusan C now comes with a new, contemporary image, new product grades and new formulations. The Baycusan C 1004 dispersion was also recently approved for the Chinese market with the INCI name “Polyurethane-35.” Croda Volarest FL from Croda is a high performance polymer shown to deliver targeted, non-drip sprayable sunscreens. The fast-growing sprayable market creates new challenges for formulators: to develop new formulations that are not only easy to apply, but also provide effective skin care benefits in a sensorially-appealing light, non-tacky way. Many of today’s sprayable products are formulated as low viscosity emulsions so that they can effectively pass through the spray nozzle. This can restrict formulators as their palette of ingredients can become limited and stability may be difficult to achieve. Though low viscosity emulsions spray effectively, they sometimes lack the “Fly-Stay” behavior that prevents
Spray May 2015
To see the actual publication please follow the link above