Mousse, continued from page 18 A B C D E A B C D E A: Control (Untreated) Initial 24 hours B: DynamX H2O polymer C: Commercial Benchmark 1 D: Commercial Benchmark 2 E: Commercial Benchmark 3. Figure 1: Lasting curl defniniton is provided by mousse containing Polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-Acrylates Copolymer (B) tively “seal” the hair, helping to preserve color. Effective- protection when formulated into mousse or other leave- ness of polymers in providing color protection was studied on styling aids. to determine the optimal ingredient choices for creating The source of CELQUAT LS-50 polymer’s ability to this product attribute in mousse formulations. provide enhanced color protection can be found in its In a study conducted by AkzoNobel Personal Care Ap- high amylose starch component, which features a linear plications, a trained panel of eight people used a qualita- structure that gives strong and water-resistant film forma- tive method to evaluate the degree to which a range of tion on hair. This film formation, in turn, results in better polymers helped protect hair color. First, color vibrancy color protection and color retention. In addition, the was evaluated on a series of dyed hair swatches. After cationic cellulose portion of the polymer helps bind the applying the polymers and washing the swatches 10 times, film to the hair fibers, effectively locking the film in place. the panel examined the hair samples to determine the continued on page 22 degree of color retention. Some of the polymers evaluated provided virtually no color protec- tion (swatches lost all vibrancy). The panelists concluded that Polyquater- nium-4/Hydroxypropyl Starch Copo- lymer provided the highest degree of color protection. Results are readily seen in Figure 2. CELQUAT LS-50 polymer (INCI: Polyquaternium-4/Hydroxypropyl Starch Copolymer) is a co-processed combination of starch and cationic cellulose that can be used in mousse formulations, where it provides ease Control 1% CELQUAT 1% PQ-16 1% PQ-11 Control of combing, feel, reduced static and (0 Washes) LS-50 (10 Washes) high-humidity curl retention. It also Figure 2: Color Protection stands out with Polyquaternium-4/Hydroxypropyl has been shown to provide color Starch Copolymer (Celquat LS-50 polymer). 20 SPRAY November 2012
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