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MousseMake the Most of with Styling Polymers for High-Performance LAURIE j. mARSHALL Formulations Personal Care Applicationsanager, Hair StylingmarketingmGlobalAkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, This paper was originally presented at the The British Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (BAMA) Autumn Forum in October 2012. Look at the store shelves in the styling products sec- hair feel with low tack; the acrylic functionality provides tion and you’ll certainly see a wide array of hair styling strength, humidity resistance and easy shampoo remov- mousse products. Virtually every brand has numerous ability. The combination of these two polymer chemistries mousse SKUs, and this ubiquitous product form seems to produces overall product properties of strength, flexibility, have been around forever. However, it may surprise you and durability, which can lead to dynamic styles and make to know that aerosol styling mousse dates back only to DynamX H2O polymer highly suited for use in mousse the mid-1980s, when L’Oréal introduced Free Hold Styl- compositions. ing Mousse. Today, you can view the old television com- When delivered from a curl-defining aerosol mousse mercials on YouTube, enjoy a bit of a flashback to the 80s formulation, the water-based urethane-acrylic polymer and remind yourself of what those early mousse products helps to provide lasting curl definition. A formulation promised the consumer, which was to give more than just containing DynamX H2O was compared to several com- hold—use them and you’d get hold with softness, hold mercially available aerosol styling mousses that featured with fullness and hold without stickiness. In an era when curl definition claims. the only aerosol styling products available were hairsprays, Wet tresses were treated with the mousse product and mousse products offered a completely different way to allowed to dry before being subjected to 90% relative style and a novel approach to holding hair. It’s no wonder humidity (at 70°F) for 24 hours. At 2.5% polymer solids, they were a hit with consumers and have remained a the mousse based on the water-based urethane-acrylic staple in styling product lines for nearly 30 years. polymer maintained better curl definition and had lower And now, new polymers and ingredient options make it frizz than any of the other formulations tested, as shown possible for this versatile styling aid to deliver even more in Figure 1, on page 20. benefits to the user. Formulators can create styling mousse The strong performance of DynamX H2O polymer in products that add volume, color protection, conditioning curl definition formulations stems from special features and curl enhancement in addition to ease of styling and related to its chemistry and the benefits they bring. It has hold. The key to creating these multifunctional products a low glass transition temperature, which provides flex- is to select polymers and formulation components that ible hold and shape memory. Its high film strength leads are designed to meet the needs of today’s discerning to duration of hold and its elasticity provides control as consumer. well as manageability, enabling the creation of styles that look effortless and move naturally. It also features high- Curl Definition humidity resistance for long-lasting styles and frizz control. Curly hair, whether natural or otherwise, needs special care so as to not become frizzy or limp. Alcohol-free Color Protection DynamX H2O polymer (INCI: Polyurethane-14 and Anyone who colors their hair knows that daily washing AMP-Acrylates Copolymer) is a fixative polymer designed with traditional shampoos can cause color fading and loss for use in a variety of styling products, including gels, of vibrancy. Mild, sulfate-free shampoos, now commonly mousses, waxes, creams, pomades and thermal protec- available, are positioned with color protection claims. Dry tion products. It provides strong, flexible, durable hold shampoos can help preserve color by increasing the time and high-humidity curl retention. The power behind this between shampoos. Leave-on products allow formulators polymer is a patented composition based on polyurethane to include functional ingredients like cationic polymers and acrylate technologies. The urethane portion helps to that bind with the negatively charged amino acids found provide hold, elasticity and flexibility for soft, touchable in hair. These polymers form a protective film and effec- 18 SPRAY November 2012


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