Mousse, continued from page 20 polymer, 70% vinyl pyrrolidone/30% vinyl acetate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and poly dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride. A Natural Approach to Conditioning & Hold Another renewable polymer suitable for multifunctional mousse Today’s consumers seek multifunctional benefits in their styling formulations is the newly introduced STRUCTURE Style polymer products. However, more and more, they also want their styling (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate). Derived from potato products to contain naturally-derived or sustainable ingredients. To starch, it is a cost-effective formulating tool that provides on-hair meet all these needs, formulators must move beyond the traditional stiffness, humidity resistance and excellent dry feel properties on portfolio of synthetic polymers that have long been employed as hair hair. fixative ingredients in gels, mousses and styling aids. Hair fixative In a mousse formulation based on Polyquaternium-4 and Hy- polymers that feature improved sustainability profiles compared to droxypropyl Starch Phosphate, trained panelists evaluated on-hair traditional styling polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and properties such as feel, static, gloss and combability, and found no vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate (VP/VA) copolymers, are a good op- significant differences when compared to a mousse formulation tion to deliver hold and conditioning in styling mousse formulations. based on synthetic polymers. This polymer combination allows the If a formulation with a more natural profile is desired, one possible creation of mousse products with multifunctional properties and a ingredient choice is CELQUAT L-200 polymer (INCI: Polyquater- more natural ingredient profile for the consumer who wants to use nium-4), a water-soluble, low-viscosity conditioner/fixative that can a more sustainable styling product, but doesn’t want to sacrifice provide enhanced performance in mousse systems. Polyquaternium-4 performance to do so. is formed by grafting dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride groups onto a cellulosic backbone, where the cellulose is a renewable poly- The Importance of Ingredient Selection saccharide typically derived from cotton. A survey of the ingredient labels on mousse products found on CELQUAT L-200 polymer is highly cationic and substantive to store shelves reveals a plethora of polymer options and formulation hair, providing combability, gloss and anti-static properties. These variations. To create products that have high performance and con- properties help to create mousse formulations that have very effec- sumer appeal, ingredient choice is a critical decision. Formulators tive wet styling properties, good hold and high-humidity resistance, first need to define the desired performance characteristics and and leave hair with a smooth, conditioned feel. As shown in Figure then select ingredients that will best help to create these properties. 3, CELQUAT L-200 polymer provides more effective high-humidity For example, lasting curl definition can be achieved through the curl retention than that provided by cationic vinyl pyrrolidone co- use of the urethane/acrylic polymer, DynamX H2O. The added ben- 22 SPRAY November 2012
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